The eve before I left Italy this fall, I stopped into Estro Vino e Cucina in Venice to say goodbye to my friends Dario and Alberto Spezzamonte, the owners of this contemporary Venetian bistrot, wine bar and wine shop. Over a glass of sparkling garganega, I asked Dario, the sommelier brother, to select December’s wine-of-the-month; he accepted, we said ciao, gave our do’ bazi (“two kisses” in Venetian dialect; a typical greeting in Italy), and I left. Four days later, on November 12th, Venice suffered from an acqua alta just two inches shy of the record-setting flood in 1966, which reached six feet and four inches.