Everything You Need to Know about White Truffles
what they are, where they grow, the classic dishes they adorn, how to go on a truffle hunt, where to buy one and more!
Whether you’ve already experienced the bewitching aroma of a white truffle or not, this article will make you a white truffle pro! We’ll tackle some of the misconceptions, myths and fascinating facts about this sought after luxury, and I guarantee it will make your first or next run in with a white truffle all the more magical.
What is a white truffle?
First things first, while the scientific name for the white truffle is Tuber magnatum pico, it is not—I repeat not—a tuber. White truffles are wild, underground fungi that have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of particular hardwood trees, such as oaks, chestnut, hazelnut, poplar, linden and beech.
White truffle hunting in a hazelnut grove in Piedmont, Italy
Where do white truffles grow?
The most famous region for white truffles is Italy’s Piedmont region, specifically the province of Alba which is also the home of the annual International White Truffle Fair—La Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba.
However, white truffles grow in many other regions of Italy—including Marche, Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Molise, Abruzzo, Basilicata, Calabria and Tuscany— as well as in other Southern European countries.
Is there a white truffle season?
Yes, truffles only grow for 3-4 months each year. Typically, the beginning of the season starts toward the end of September and continues until the end of the year, sometimes stretching into January. The more prized truffles are found in the later half of the season.
Because white truffles lose their potency over time, ideally they are consumed within a couple of weeks of being found. This is why buying and enjoying them in season is essential.
Shaved white truffles over Agnolotti del Plin, a classic stuffed pasta from Piedmont, Italy
What do white truffles taste like?
Ready to have your mind blown? White truffles actually have very little taste! What we “taste” is their strong, pungent, earthy aroma. If you can imagine a combination of garlic, honey and hay, you will have a good idea of what to expect from a white truffle.
If cooked, they lose their scent. This is why white truffles are not used as an ingredient in dishes, but as a raw condiment—a topping, if you will. White truffles are classically shaved over a dish just before it is eaten, using a specific truffle shaver.
Black truffles, on the other hand, are often used as an ingredient, either ground or chopped (also shaved). They have more flavor than white truffles.
What are some dishes that go with white truffles?
Even though white truffles have a strong scent, it is also nuanced and delicate, and you do not want to overpower it with intense flavors; neutral dishes are ideal.
Classic white truffle dishes include scrambled eggs, tajarin (egg pasta from Piemonte), steak tartare and, while less neutral, a Piemontese fondue made from Fontina cheese. Yum!
How big are white truffles?
White truffles can grow as big as 5 inches in diameter, but often are far smaller. The average weight of a white truffle is between 30 - 60 grams (1 - 2 ounces). The largest white truffle ever recorded was found in Umbria, weighing in just over 4 pounds.
Are white truffles really white?
Some are, but white truffles come in a range of muted colors, from pink and grey to amber and off-white. Depending on the white truffle’s host tree, it will take on a different color. For example, white truffles found by oak trees tend to have darker gleba (flesh) with a red tint, whereas white truffles found near poplars are more typically yellow. The aromas will also be slightly different based on the host tree
Why are white truffles so expensive?
All truffles carry a high price tag because their seductive scent is highly sought after—not to mention the small window in which to enjoy them each year and the skilled men, women and four-legged friends needed to find them. Because the aroma of the white truffle is the most potent, they can cost as much as five times more than black truffles.
While not as expensive as gold like some people claim, a white truffle typically costs about $5-7 per gram. (Gold, fyi, is about $55 per gram). A typical white truffle portion is about 10 grams, which means your $20 pasta dish could wind up costing $90!
The most ever paid for a truffle was $330,000 by Macau casino owner Stanley Ho for a specimen that weighed 3.3 pounds in 2007—that’s about $220 per gram, making Mr. Ho’s pasta dish $2,220!
The International White Truffle Fair in Alba, Italy
Where can I buy white truffles?
The best place to buy white truffles is in the countries where they are found (and, of course, in the period in which they are found). White truffle fairs and markets are usually the best bet, you can also buy directly from truffle hunters. Hotels in prime truffle hunting regions, such as Alba in Piedmont and Urbino in Marche, usually have contacts for trustworthy truffle hunters.
In the US, there are Italian restaurants and retailers that import white truffles each fall. Keep an eye out for announcements beginning in October. Eataly, the Italian food purveyor, sells white truffles during truffle season.
How can I pick out a good white truffle?
There is an old Italian proveb “To trust is good, to not trust is better” that many people would especially apply when buying white truffles. Here are some things to look out for:
The white truffle should be firm to the touch.
The aroma should be complex and express the classic combination of garlic, hay and honey; do not buy any truffle smelling anything like ammonia.
Be wary of truffles that are completely encrusted in dirt; it may be hiding rotten areas.
Research the going price for white truffles before entering a market or meeting a trusted truffle hunter. Prices vary within a season and from year to year.
White truffles are priced by weight. Do not buy any specimen pre-priced.
Scene from a truffle hunt with certified truffle hunter and his trusty truffle hunting dog.
How can I go on a truffle hunt?
Truffle hunters are very secretive about where they go to find their seasonal bounty, especially since truffles tend to grow repeatedly in the same location. Often truffle hunting is done during the early hours of the morning under a cloak of darkness. That being said, truffle hunters realize the interest in their work and will take small groups on mostly simulated white truffle hunts (some are less simulated-feeling).
My week-long, autumnal Piedmont Wine + Culture Tours always include a truffle hunt with a certified trifulau (that means “truffle hunter” in the Piemontese dialect). I also organize itineraries that include truffle hunts for clients who prefer to travel on their own. See my trip consulting options here.
Do truffle hunters use dogs or pigs?
In the past, some truffle hunters used sows to locate truffles; truffles, especially black truffles, emit a scent similar to hormones released by boar. After World War II, the practice of using sows fell out of favor, partly because they are less trainable and would eat the truffles and partly because of the damage they caused to the truffles’ vegetative environment. Since 1985, it is prohibited to use a pig for truffle hunting in Italy.
Today, truffle hunters only use highly trained dogs. While some truffle hunters swear by muts, the breed Lagotto Romagnolo (Romagna Water Dog) has been specifically bred to have a keen sense of smell for truffle hunting. Between the price of the dog and its training, truffle hunters can spend as much as $10,000 on their furry friends.
Truffle hunters are allowed to dig only in the area the dog has indicated.
How can I store white truffles?
Remember a white truffle should ideally be consumed within a week of its being found. To store, wrap the truffle in a paper towel and place in a glass jar with a tight lid. Change the paper towel every other day so that dampness does not build up in the jar. The aroma will remain in the jar; when the last bit is consumed, this is a perfect time to add eggs or rice to the container to absorb the lingering white truffle aromas. You can choose to add things to the container with the white truffle, but be warned your white truffle will lose some of its potency.
One last important tip: White truffles are never peeled. Before using, gently brush the truffle with a lightly damp cloth to remove any dirt on the area you will shave off. Buon appetito!
Did you learn anything new and exciting?
I would love to hear from you in the comments below.
Check out La Dolce Vigna’s Trip Consluting Options for a White Truffle-infused trip to Piemonte next year
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